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Index:The Wines of the World (1875).djvu

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TitleThe Wines of the World
AuthorHenry Vizetelly
Year1875
PublisherWard, Lock, & Tyler
LocationLondon
Sourcedjvu
ProgressProofread—All pages of the work proper are proofread, but not all are validated
TransclusionIndex not transcluded or unreviewed

CONTENTS.

PAGE.
Introductory.
The first public assemblage of the Wines of the world—Onerous nature of the duties of the Vienna Wine jury—Vastness of the area comprised by the Wine-producing districts—Rules which guided the jury in their awards 9
The Wines of France and Algeria.
I.—Bordeaux Wines.
Character of the Grand Gironde Wines, Châteaux Lafite, Haut Brion, Margaux, and Latour—Tendency towards over-production—The St. Julien, St. Estèphe, Catenac, Margaux, and Pauillac crûs—Pressing the grapes to the sound of fifes and fiddles—Situation of the Haut Médoc—Wines of St. Emilion—Château Lafite of 1811—The White Wines of the Gironde—Châteaux Yquem and Latour Blanche—Vintaging of Château Yquem—Sauternes and Barsac—Vines and Vineyards in the Gironde—Vineyard area and production—List of Grand Vintages—Prices and Exports 11
II.—Burgundy, Mâcon, and Beaujolais Wines.
The generous vinous growths of the Côte d'Or, Romanée, Clos de Vougeot, Chambertin, Musigny, Volnay, Corton, and Beaune—The White Wines of Montrachet, Meursault, and Chablis—The principal Mâcon wines, Moulin-à-Vent, Thorins, and Pouilly—The more remarkable growths of the Beaujolais—Burgundy Vines, Vineyards, and Vintages—Prices of the Burgundy, Mâconnais, and Beaujolais Wines 21
III.—Wines of the Côtes du Rhône.
Red, White, and Straw Hermitage— Côte Rôtie—Condrieu—The Rose-colour Wines of the Côtes du Rhône—St. Peray, commended by Alexandre Dumas—Châteauneuf-du-Pape and its ravaged Vineyards—Prices of the foregoing Wines 27
IV.—Wines of the South of France.
The growths of the Hérault, the Gard, the Aude, and the Pyrenées-Orientales—Roussillon—The Muscats of Lunel, Rivesaltes, and Frontignan—The Rancio Wines— Prices—The dry White and sweet Red Wines of Corsica 29
V.—Champagnes and other Sparkling Wines.
Champagnes and their substitutes—Sparkling St. Peray, Lons-le-Saunier, Vouvray, and Saumur—Champagne of High Life—Imitation Wines—Vineyard area of France and its average production—The departments producing the finest growths and the largest quantities—The ravages of the Phylloxera vastatrix and proposed panaceas—Value of a full Vintage in France—Exports of Wine in 1870 and 1873 32
VI.—Wines of Algeria.
Condition of the Vienna samples—Vineyard area and production—Rewards awarded to Exhibitors of Wine from France and her Colonies 38
The Wines of Germany.
I.—Rhine Wines.
Archaic and modern samples from the cabinet of the Grand Duke of Nassau—Steinbergers, Hochheimers, Marcobrunners, and Rudesheimers—Schloss-Johannisberger—Other grand Wines of the Rheingau, Rauenthaler berg, Geisenheimer Rothenberg, and Kiedricher—Auslese Wines and their demerits—The Rudesheim Vineyards—Special characteristics of the grand Rhine Wines—The Rheingau—The Hochheim Vineyards—Varieties of grape cultivated on the Rhine—Red Rhine Wines, Heidesheimer, Ingelheimer, Assmannshauser, Kreutzberger, and Daltenberger—The Red Wines of the Ahr, Walporzheimer, Ahrweilerer, and Bodendorfer—Liebfrauenmilch—Grand Rhine Vintages—The Gallization process 39
II.—Moselle and other German Wines.
Moselle Wines at their best—Berncastle Doctor Wine—The Vineyards and Wines of Trêves—Artificial Vineyards at Winnengen—The Wines of the Saar and Nahe valleys—The dominating Vines of the Moselle—The growths of the Bavarian Palatinate—Deidesheimer and Forster auslesen—Stein and Leisten Wine—The Baden growths, Markgrafler, Affenthaler, and the Wines of the Bergstrasse—The Vintages of Alsace and Lorraine— The Drie Manner Wein—Silesian Wine—Alcoholic strength of German Wines 51
III.—Sparkling Rhine, Moselle, and other Wines.
Improved character of German sparkling Wines generally—Their qualities and prices—Great increase in their production of late years—The Vineyard area of the different German States— Their produce, exports, and small annual consumption—Rewards to exhibitors of German Wines at Vienna 57
The Wines of Switzerland.
Absence of the finer growths from Vienna—Excellent White Wine of Loys Châtelanat, vintaged 2,700 feet above the sea—The Thurgau Wines—Rewards accorded to Swiss exhibitors—Deficiency of tannin and consequent want of keeping power in the Swiss Red Wines—Alcoholic strength and characteristics of the principal Wines of Switzerland—Vineyard area, production, and value 60
The Wines of Austria.
I.—Wines from the North.
Singularly diverse character of the Austrian Wines—Growths in the neighbourhood of Vienna: Vöslauer, Gumpoldskirchner, Klosterneuburger—Vines growing in loam, sand, gravel, chalk, stones, and even coal—Vins verts northwards of Vienna—White country Wines of Lower Austria—Vineyard situations and species of vine cultivated in the archduchy—Produce and price—Wines of Moravia—Its raw and mild growths—Curious vintage custom at Znaim—Primitive state of vinification—Produce of the Moravian Vineyards and estimated value—The Red and White Wines of Labin, in Bohemia—Produce of the Bohemian Vineyards and the high price it commands—Backward condition of vinification in Voralberg and Bukowina 63
II.—Wines from the South.
Favourable natural conditions for producing Wine enjoyed by Styria—Varieties of the Luttenberger growths—Peculiarities of Wines from the Mosler grape—The Marburg Wines and the Styrian Muscats—Wines vintaged on the Windisch hills—Red and Schiller Wines of Styria—Varieties of Vine cultivated—Annual production and price—Inferior growths of the German in comparison with those of the Italian Tyrol—Red and White Wines of the former—The excellent Red Wines of Roveredo and Trent—Different systems of viticulture and vinification in the German and Italian Tyrols—Produce and price—Wines of Carinthia and the primitive mode of making them—The Carnolian growths—The Wippach mountain region, its inclement climate, and character of its Wines—The favourite Wine of the Empress Livia Drusilla—The dark and bitter Friauler—Terran wine from the rock-strewn Karst plateau—The Görz and Trieste growths—Peculiarities of the red wines of Istria—The Vineyards and Wines of Dalmatia—Their sweet and spirituous character—The luscious Maraschino Wine entirely different to the well-known liqueur—Alcoholic strength of the Wines of Austria—Vineyard area, production, and value—Exhibitors of Austrian Wines at Vienna and the rewards accorded them 69
The Wines of Hungary.
I.—Tokay.
Historic associations connected with Tokay—The Tokay Hegyalja—The various grapes from which Tokay is made—System of vinification—The Essenz, Ausbruch, Forditás or Wendung, and Szomorodner Wines—Produce of the Tokay vintage—Famous years 81
II.—Ordinary Hungarian Wines.
Méneser and Karlowitzer—Szegszárder, Ofner, and Erlauer—The Œdenburg white Wines, and especially Ruster—Wines of the Ermellék—Scientific mode of viticulture and vinification—Somlauer, Badacsonyer, and Nesmélyer—Pressburg, Werschetz, and Weisskirchen Wines—Hungarian Muscats—Croatian and Slavonian growths—Marked improvement in the former Wines—Contrasts in the white varieties—Alcoholic strength of the Hungarian Wines 85
III .—The Wines of Transylvania.
Admirable representative collection of the Wines of the province—Bakator at its best—Rózsamáler and Kokelbürger—Soro, or Sombor, an exquisite White Wine—Leánykas, Rieslings, and Muscats—Máslás and Trammer—Still Champagne—Experiments with French Wines—Sauternes and Cabernet—Other Transylvanian Wines—Principal Vineyards of Transylvania—Alcoholic strength of Transylvanian Wines—Experiences of an English wine-grower—Vineyard area of the kingdom of Hungary—Production and exports—Exhibitors and rewards at Vienna 92
The Wines of Russia.
The Wine districts of Russia and estimated production—White and Red Wines of the Crimea and their more striking characteristics—Prevalence of the Tokay grape in the Crimean Vineyards—Wines of the Caucasus—The Kakhetian Wine of the Persian poets—Nauseous flavour of Wine preserved in goat-skins soaked in naphtha—Bessarabian table Wines—The Don sparkling Wines—Climate and soil of the Crimea—Great variety of Vines cultivated—The Wines of the Imperial Vineyard School of Margaratsch—Richness of the musts—Alcoholic strength of the Russian Wines—The Donski and Krimski Champagnes—General defects of viticulture and vinification—Rewards to exhibitors of Russian Wines 97
The Wines of Portugal.
I.—The Wines of the Douro.
Port Wine as known in England—Its deficiency in finesse, freshness, and delicacy of flavour—Wines from the Alto-Douro—The historical grand vintages preserved by adventitious spirit—Character of the Wines from the Douro and Oporto districts—Geropiga—The Douro Vineyards; soil and variety of Vines cultivated—Annual production—Good and bad Vintages—Imports of Port Wine into Great Britain—Steady increase in the consumption—Persistence in the practice of fortifying Port Wine with raw spirit—Official report to the Portuguese Government on the subject—Natural Ports—Opinions of a large grower on the future of Port Wine—Injurious effects of Port Wine as now manufactured upon the health of the consumer—Port Wine extensively imitated 104
II.—Ordinary Wines of Portugal.
Vins Verts of Braga and Vianna—Wines from the North—The growths of Traz-os-Montes—Red and White Wines vintaged south of the Douro—The highly-alcoholic Bairrada Wines—The dry Red Wines of Lavradio—The potent growths of Castello Branco and Cartaxo—Torres Vedras Wines and their goat-skin odour—The light and full-bodied, sweet and acidulous, and feeble aDd spirituous Wines of Lisbon—White and Red Bucellas—The fresh-tasting growths of Collares, and the spirituous White Wines of Carcavellos—Muscats of Azeitão—The Wines of Portalegre, Extremoz, Borba, Elvas, and Evora—Slovenly system of Vinification—The Villa Viçosa Wines—The naturally spirituous Wines of the extreme South—Alcoholic strength of Portuguese Wines—The Vineyards of Portugal, their area and produce—Total exports 111
III.—The Wines of Madeira.
Madeiras aged both naturally and artificially—Characteristics developed in the Wine by length of years—Interesting sample of the natural Wine—Its rich vinous flavour—Produce of the Madeira Vineyards since their replantation—Exports and value—Rewards to exhibitors of Portuguese Wines 118
The Wines of Spain.
I.—Sherries.
All the varieties of the Jerez district represented at Vienna—Vino fino 120 years old—Highly-fortified nature of the majority of the samples—The finer Jerez Wines—Manzanillas, thin, dry, and tonical—Their bitter aromatic flavour due to peculiarities of soil—Amontillados, the chemical action to which they owe their etherous bouquet and development—Characteristics of the Wines of Montilla—Vinos de pasto—The conventional British Sherry—How it is plastered, sulphured, dosed with spirit, sweetened, flavoured, and coloured—Dulce—Further additions of alcohol before shipment—The dosing of Wine with coarse spirit while in bond—The Sherry-rearer's Soleras—Alcoholic strength of natural Jerez Wines—The Jerez Vineyards and their various soils, albariza, bugeo, and barro arenas—Species of Vines 120
II.—Ordinary Spanish Wines.
Moguer Wines—Pajerete and Tinto de Rota—Sweet and dry Malagas, their Vintaging and Vinification—Wines of the Sierra Morena—Red and White Val de Peñas, the classical Wine of Cervantes—Full-flavoured Red Wines from Toledo and Guadalajara—Aromatic White Wines from the Spanish Tagus—Vinos Tintos of the Mediterranean, or Spanish Reds—The syrupy Wines of Alicante—Spirituous Red Wines of Valencia—Varieties of Priorato—Barcelona, Tarragona, and Reus Wines—Elderberries employed to deepen Spanish Reds—The same Wines mixed with the poorer growths of France—Aragon samples, dry Red Wines of the Campo de Cariñena and Ojo de Gallo, or Cock's Eye—The Wines of Biscay, the Asturias and Navarre—Attempts to acclimatise the finer French Vines in Spain—Alcoholic strength of Spanish Wines—Species of Vines—Viticultural area and produce—Exports—Consumption of Spanish Wines in Great Britain 127
III.—Wines of the Balearic and Canary Isles.
Aleyor and Alba flora—Muscats and Malmseys—Ordinary Red and White Wines—Canary, its double resemblance to Madeira and Sherry—The ancient Sack—Produce of the Canary Isles before and since the Vine disease—Falling off in the exports—Cochineal found more profitable than Wine—Exhibitors of Spanish Wines at Vienna and the rewards accorded them 134
The Wines of Italy.
I.—Wines of the North.
Backwardness of Italy in regard to the production of fine Wines—The Piedmontese growths Barolo, Nebiolo, Barbera, Asti, and Grignolino—Wines from the battlefield of Marengo—Red and White Wines from Genoa la Superba—Samples from the pebbly Lombardian plains—White Wine from the city of violins and the Red growths of Pavia—Valpolicello, Prosecco, and other Wines from the province of Venetia—Samples from the Reggio Æmilia, Bologna, Sarsina, Rimini, &c. 136
II.—Wines of the Centre.
Chianti, Pomino, Artimino, Carmignano, Verdea, and Montepulciano, from the sunny province of Tuscany—Samples from the vicinity of Florence—Insipidly-sweet Straw-Wines—The Ancona growths—Poor Wines of the Campagna—The Vino dell' Est, which mastered Bishop Johann Fugger—Wines vintaged around Rome 139
III.—Wines of the South.
The luscious Lacryma Christi—Falerno, Capri, and other Wines of the Bay of Naples—The Bari, Gallipoli, and Taranto growths—Muscats of Aquila—Grotoletto, Sananervi, Fiorignano, Montevino, Gransasso, and Zucco Wines—Sicilian vins de dessert—Marsala, and its great alcoholic strength—Stout dry Red Marsala—Wine from the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna—Malmseys and Muscats—Red and White Syracuse Wines—The produce of the Mount Matrissa Vineyards extolled by both Virgil and Pliny—Alcantara from the site of the Chalcidean colony of Naxos—Various modes of cultivating the Vine in Italy—Careless system of Vinification—Alcoholic strength of the principal Italian Wines—Annual produce of Wine in Italy—Exports and value—Prices of Wine in loco—Exhibitors of Italian Wines at Vienna and rewards secured by them 141
The Wines of Greece.
Great care requisite in pressing the grapes and fermenting the must of Greek Wines—The resining of Wines justified on hygienic grounds—Greek Wines with certain exceptions unequalled—High character of St. Elie—Red and White Hymettus—Dry full-flavoured Noussa—Its fruity bouquet—Red and White Kephisia—Wines from the pipless currant grape—Potent red Wine of Patras—Malmsey, manna to the mouth and balsam to the brain—Sweetish Red Wines of Naxos—The brilliant, full-bodied Como—Santorin, the nest of the grand Greek crûs—Thera, suggestive of a dry Madeira—The delicate, spirituous, freshtasting, and ambrosial St. Elie, poetically termed the Wine of Night—Red Santorin, its vinous bouquet and fine dry spirituous flavour—The luscious Red and White Vino Santo—Santorin Lacryma Christi—The Santorin Vineyards, soil, and varieties of Vine—The Wines of the Ionian Islands—Alcoholic strength of Greek Wines—Vineyard area of Greece and annual produce—Exports—Exhibitors and rewards at Vienna 146
The Wines of Turkey and Roumania.
Soil and climate of Turkey suited to the production of good Wine—Obnoxious practice of resining the Turkish Wines—The red growths of the Golden Horn—Samples from Adrianople, Salonica, and Janina—Cyprus of the Commanderie, its balsamic character when old—The soil and Vines of the Cyprus Vineyards—Exports of Cyprus Wine—The Cretan Wines extolled by Martial and Diodorus, and the growths of to-day—Samian Wine a luscious Muscat—The Wine of Scio praised by Pliny and Strabo—Samples from Smyrna and Jerusalem—Vintages from the slopes of Mount Lebanon—Produce of the Vineyards of Turkey—Exhibitors and rewards—Objectionable character of most of the Roumanian Wines—Negligent vinification—Awards to exhibitors—Vineyard area and production 152
The Wines of the United States of America.
and Devereux growths—Sparkling Catawba and its musky perfume—Fresh-tasting Sonoma—First attempts at Wine-making in America—Importation of European Vines—Attempts to acclimatise them—The Catawba planted on the banks of the Ohio—The flourishing Missouri Vineyards—Cultivation of the Vine in other States of the Union—System of planting and training—Vineyard area and produce—The great Transatlantic Wine companies—Mode of subduing the musky flavour of the American grapes—Sugar added to the musts—Alcoholic strength of Californian Wines—Prices—Importation of Wine to the United States 157
The Wines of the British Colonies.
I.—Australian Wines.
Composition of the Jury selected to judge the Australian Wines—Numerous samples untasted through negligence of agent—Excellence of Australian Hermitage—Incredulity of the French experts—The Victorian Wines—South Australian and Queensland growths—Interesting samples from the Australian Vineyards Association—Goût de terroir in certain Red varieties—Excellent White Wine from the Auldana Vineyards—An admirable Riesling from Adelaide—Absence of the New South Wales growths—Awards to Australian Wine-growers—Diploma of honour unhesitatingly granted—Alcoholic strength of Australian Wines—First introduction of the Vine into Australia and its subsequent progress—Wine industry affected by the gold discovery—Species of grapes cultivated—Extension of the Viticultural area of Australia during the last quarter of a century—Largely-increased production 164
II.—Wines of the Cape of Good Hope.
Varieties of Cape Wines—Dry Pontac—Cape Wine of fine flavour from a Spanish grape—Sweet Red Constantia—White Constantia—Frontignac—The Constantia Vineyards; species of Vines cultivated in them introduced from France—The Wine-growing interests of the Cape ruined by protection—Great falling off in the exports—Wines omitted to be tasted—Summary of the awards for Wines at the Vienna Exhibition 175
Concluding Remarks.
Disapproval of the recognition of imitation Wines—Sources of our Wine supply daily multiplying—Improvements taking place in viticulture and vinification—Prospective abandonment of the practice of dosing Wine with alcohol— Suggested reduction of duty—The entire population of the United Kingdom drink merely one-fifth of the quantity of Wine annually consumed by the inhabitants of Paris alone—Acknowledgments to my colleagues of the Wine Jury 178
The Beers of Europe.
Introductory.
Beers exhibited at Vienna—Picturesque Beer trophies contributed by the Continental brewers—The lighter Beers unable to support a warm temperature—Austrian and German samples obliged to be stored in iced cellars 181
I.—Austria and Hungary.
Austrian Beers brewed on the Bavarian system—Their lightness and refreshing flavour—Bavarian method of under-fermentation followed—Fewer bops and less malt used—Necessity for icing the Beer to keep it sound—Beer food as well as drink to a German—Great increase in the consumption of Beer in Austria—Dreher's Brewery, near Vienna—Rewards to Austrian brewers—The Bohemian Pilsner Beer—Ales of Bohemia long renowned and largely consumed at the present day—-Moravian Beer—The Beer of Austrian Silesia—Styrian Beer largely exported—Only one sample of Beer from Hungary—Taxation and production of Beer in the Austrian Empire 183
II.—Germany.
Bavaria the principal Beer-producing German State—Samples of Bavarian Beer and rewards—The system of under-fermentation explained—Special advantages derived from it—Drawbacks of the English system of Brewing—Small air-tight casks stored in ice absolutely essential to the Bavarian Beers—Taxation and production of Beer in Bavaria and Würtemberg—Large increase in the consumption—Rewards for Prussian Beers—Kühle blonde or Weiss Bier—Aspects of a Berlin Weiss Bier stube—The great Prussian Breweries, their Beer halls and gardens—Taxation and production of Beer in Prussia—Principal Saxon Breweries at Dresden—Beer-production of Saxony—The Beer industry and consumption in the duchies and provinces of North Germany 188
III.—Great Britain.
Samples of British Beers and rewards secured by them—The Ales of the Anglo-Bavarian Brewery Company the only Beers in barrel found sound—Their light and sparkling properties supply a long-felt want—Intoxicating influence of English Beers not exclusively due to their alcoholic strength—Stupifying qualities of aldehyde—Beer adulterations—Absorption of the brewing trade by the larger establishments—Statistics of Beer-production in Great Britain and Ireland—Extent of the exports—The revenue derived from Beer—Importation of hops—Vast home consumption of British Beers 195
IV.—France.
Abundance of wine and cider interferes with the consumption of French Beers—Taxation and production of Beer in France—Quantity annually consumed 198
V.—Belgium.
Peculiarity of the Belgian Beers—Taxation, production, and consumption of Beer in Belgium 199
VI.—Holland.
Production of Dutch Beer on the increase—Taxation, annual production, and consumption—Expectation expressed that Beer will eventually supplant the universal schnapps 199
VII.—Russia.
Breweries encouraged by the Russian Government with the view of suppressing spirit-drinking—Increase in the consumption of Beer and decrease in that of spirits—Materials and brewing processes equally susceptible of great improvement—Character of the Russian Beers—Production, consumption, and taxation 200
VIII.—Sweden and Norway, &c.
Christiania export Ale—Production and consumption of Beer in Sweden and Norway—Beer from Denmark, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, and Roumania—Production and taxation of Beer in the United States—General table 201
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